All Roads Lead to Rome

I start to head north again. Rome is a very distinctive city. Romanita?, Roman-ness, that unmistakable blend of disenchanted irony and conviviality – is what gives the eternal city its unique atmosphere. But like London or Paris, Rome is also multi-faceted, with many micro Romes making up the big one, each with its own distinguishing features.

One of these microcosms is Testaccio, which I can now see from via Ostiense, past the ancient pyramid of Cestius. Historically a working-class, industrial district, Testaccio is now home to a variety of bars and restaurants, and has transformed itself into one of the hippest hotspots for Roman nightlife, rivalling the Pigneto and Ponte Milvio. But at this hour, the Core de Roma – the Romans who represent the ‘heart of Rome’ – are at home, or else ensconced inside a club.

Even the historic centre is empty now. I only get out of the car for a few minutes, at Piazza di Spagna, and after a brief stroll, I reach the viewpoint on the Pincian Hill, from which I can see the enormous Piazza del Popolo, and beyond it, the entire city. By day, Rome’s beauty can be obscured by noise, traffic, and hordes of tourists. By night, however, everyday life is replaced by eternity.

I retrace my steps back to the car and take the driver’s seat once more. I’ve seen many masterpieces tonight, but this city is also a masterpiece in its own right, the product of tradition, style, and passion: true art, in fact. And for a few more hours, it’s mine, all mine.